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Verwood Historical Society

Verwood Heathland Heritage Centre

In the early eighteen hundreds most of south east Dorset, apart from land bordering the rivers, was mainly infertile heathland with pockets of workable clay. At that time a scattering of potters were to be found across the heath.  They constructed simple living and working quarters and when the clay was worked out, moved on.  Some folk found larger areas of workable soil and set up house with orchards and farms.  Their houses were usually made of "cob" - a mixture of clay, gravel and straw - and had roofs thatched with straw or heather. A small hamlet developed into a self-supporting community called VERWOOD.  Some think the name derives from “Fayre wood” from the many trees in the area.  The community would have included a blacksmith, carpenter, thatcher, shoemaker and basket and broom makers.  Also a butcher and baker.

 

Verwood’s original centre was where the cross-roads is now and the building known today as the “Potters Wheel” shop was part of the last pottery in the area - it ceased to operate as recently as 1952.  The car park was once the site of a large mud pit, known as "Ferret's Green" after a local family who were earlier owners of the pottery.  Last year it was excavated prior to development as a car park.  An interesting discovery was made when it was realised that pottery making had existed much further back in time than was first accepted.

 

In 1866 the London and South Western Railway came to Verwood.  The station was a small affair and stood immediately on the Verwood Side of the “Albion Hotel” pub.

 

The coming of the railway encouraged new industry and the population grew.  The potters could now send their pots to market by rail - and so could the brick-makers.  At least three brickyards were established - one at Black Hill and the others respectively north and south of the station.  In addition tons of sand taken from the now closed quarry at Stephen’s Castle by horse and cart to the goods yard were exported by rail to the brick industry and for glass making.  There was also a brickyard at Ebblake manufacturing white bricks from a seam of local clay.  These bricks were used for decoration and many examples can be seen in the town today as well as further afield.  Although the “Stephens Castle” quarry is now closed, it was still operating during the Second World War and many tons of sand and gravel were supplied from it to help make units of the floating concrete “Mulberry Harbours”.  It was these harbours which helped the success of operation “Overlord” - the allied invasion of Normandy in 1944 - by ensuring the rapid unloading of men and equipment from ocean going ships onto an otherwise harbour less beach!

 

As part of the general War Effort, Lower Common, Three Legged Cross, Verwood was one of the sites where decoy runway lights were deployed.  When switched on they led German aircrews to think they were over an actual airfield and induce them to drop heir bombs harmlessly on the open countryside.  The Moors Valley Golf Club now occupies the site.  However, the two rows of lights were a long way from mains electricity and were powered by a generator.  The earth-covered nissan type hut, with extension for the diesel generator, complete with anti-blast walls protecting the two entrances still stands fifty years later.  The raised concrete base onto which one presumes the generator was bolted is still in situ.  In all probability it would have been the R.A.F. Group Controller who would call for the decoy lights to be turned on.  Two R.A.F. men, Fred Hooper and Bob Chapple were billeted in a house, still to be found at the corner of Lake Road and Woodlinken Road – “Heatherview” - with their R.A.F. issue bicycles.  They would maintain the system in good order and cycle down to switch it on when telephoned.  Two other aircraftsmen were stationed in Verwood for these duties. They and their cycles were billeted with Bert and Mary Bailey in “Howe Cottage”, Howe Lane, Verwood. The photograph shows the earth-covered structure still standing today. Two more notes show how ‘rural’ Verwood was tied up with the Second World War ‘war effort’.  The twelve and-a-half acre smallholding of Dennis Cannell - at the time Chairman of the Town Council’s Parish Council pre-cursor - was, except for his bungalow on the corner of what is now Noon Hill Road, requisitioned and the land became the headquarters of a searchlight battery for the duration.  Troops and equipment needed for the D - Day invasion of Normandy were brought into large areas of Southern England, eventually to be moved to ports of embarkation such as Poole Harbour and Weymouth; they included thousands of American soldiers.  Some of these were in a temporary camp put up on Dewlands Common.  Mr Dennis "Sunner" Lockyer recalls those days.  One day late in 1943 a black American G.I. asked him to buy a home-made apple pie from the "Punch and Judy" Café, burnt down in 1972 and now the site of Verwood's Post Office.

 

Having brought many changes during its 98 years of operation, on May 4th 1964 the railway ran its last train, victim of the "Beeching" axe.  Many Verwoodians who are over forty years of age tell of their daily trip by train to school and of the pranks some of them got up to!  Today's children travel to Ferndown and Wimborne by school bus.

 

In 1990 Station Road was rebuilt at the south side of the Albion Inn.  From this vantage point may be seen the preserved brick-arch bridge which carried the original road over the railway and behind the Albion Inn.  The increasing population in the second half of the last century helped turn the erstwhile “Hamlet near Cranborne” into a village with its own churches and schools.

 

Verwood has always been fairly well off for churches.  There have been four independent later Congregational churches in the village.  By 1847 one stood on Church Hill and also a small chapel in the ownership of Rebecca Shearing stood on the Common.  In 1877 the chapel, which is now the library, was built and the latest is the present United Reformed Church which was built in 1906.  In 1829 the Anglicans built a small, mud wall chapel of ease on the site of the present Parish Church.  In 1870 a brick chancel was added, then in 1886 it was rebuilt in local brick.  However, this was extended in 1980 to cope with the growing population of the village.  A daughter church was built of iron at Three Legged Cross (All Saints) in 1893 and this was clad in stone in 1957.  Unfortunately All Saints Church was demolished at the beginning of August (1992) having been found to be unsafe.  A Church Centre plus Priest's House has been built during 1994 so that All Saints is fully active once again.  Methodist worship has been strong in the village for well over a hundred years.  A Primitive Methodist Chapel was erected in 1876 and was replaced by the present Methodist Church in 1909, itself enlarged in 1993.

 

In memory of those who died serving during World War 1 a wooden cross was erected in the churchyard, later replaced by one of Portland Stone. The Recreation Ground was purchased by public subscription as a memorial to those who served in that War and is held in Trust for the town by the Town Council.  A second fund begun before World War II culminated in the construction in 1959 of the Memorial Hall, subject of a separate Trust which is vested in a Management Committee.

 

Pubs have been associated with churches in most places and Verwood is no exception. However, the "New Inn" opposite the Parish Church lost its licence in 1906 and afterwards continued as a sweet shop and grocery store, but it exists no longer.  The oldest pub The Albion Inn still stands adjoining the site of the old railway station  It has recently extended to provide a dining area for the increasingly popular menus available.  There is the Monmouth Ash in Manor Road, the Fayrewood in Ringwood Road and the Three Swans opposite Safeways.  In Three Legged Cross there is The Woodcutter's and The Old Barn.

 

The present First Schools both started in churches and it was John Carnegie, Vicar of Cranborne 1841-72 who had a schoolroom built in 1847 (the children actually having been taught in the church for the previous 10 years) and this was used right up unti11985, when a modern replacement was built in Howe Lane.  Children from Three Legged Cross had a long walk to school in Verwood until they too had a school room in 1873.

 

Some time during the mid part of the century the non-conformists also started day classes which in 1880 became the British School. It became the County School in 1967 and moved to modern premises in Hillside Road and this too has had to be extended by the addition of mobile classrooms.

 

Verwood was lucky enough to have a new Middle School built in 1988 which meant the 9-13 year olds no longer had to be transported out of the village.  It has since been extended.

 

The Verwood Carnival was started in 1929 by the then Vicar's wife, Mrs. Jeayes, and has been held every year since (apart from the war years).  The Carnival is held in the Recreation Ground on Spring Bank Holiday (Whitsun) and has now attained the status of a major entertainment event in the South of England, drawing people not only from the immediate district but also from a wide area including the counties surrounding Dorset.  During the last eleven years over £44,000 has been distributed to local groups as a result.

 

In the 1960's and 70's many new estates sprang up and by the nineteen eighties.  Verwoodians and other inhabitants of South East Dorset feared that over-development could lead to an uninterrupted urban area stretching from the coastal arc of Poole, Bournemouth and Christchurch, inland as far as Verwood.  The tide was stemmed when the then Secretary of State for the Environment signed the "First Alteration to the South East Dorset Structure Plan" in April1990. This runs until the year 2001.  Until recently "Local Plans" including the Verwood and Three Legged Cross, St. Leonards and St. Ives Local Plan, which is soon to be formally adopted, were the means of clothing the skeleton of Structure Plans.  However, in 1994 central government decreed that local plans should be District wide and all of the agreed parts of the Verwood & Three Legged Cross Local Plan are being incorporated into the District Council's District Plan.  Although two and a half thousand new houses for Verwood were mentioned in 1990, plans have been passed and some houses built so that now, by late 1995 within the Plan only about one thousand remain to be built.  Nevertheless, the infrastructure will benefit due to developers having to make legal agreements with District Council to the effect that one year from the granting of planning permission they will pay over financial contributions towards improved and extended roads, car parks and other structures which will eventually benefit the whole town.

 

A major construction in the early eighties, following a planning appeal won by developers, was that of the "Safeways" complex, together with the associated housing estates built up on either side of Burnbake Road, itself only "made up" and taken over in 1981.  Within the complex, the Leisure Centre building, erected by the developer and vested in the District Council was seen as a "Planning Gain".  A dedicated group of volunteers and a handful of paid staff, The Verwood Community Association, have run it ever since.  It is unfortunate that the floor area is only large enough to accommodate four-a-side rather than five-a-side football and one looks hopefully to the future development of Verwood for improved facilities on a new site as envisaged by the Local Plan.  The Association is responsible for the management of Potterne Park, also owned by the District Council.  Both these facilities are leased down through the Town Council to the Association, which receives with grateful thanks substantial grant aid from both Councils.

 

The emergency services have in recent years raised their profile in Verwood.  A new Fire Station was built in 1992, a modern warehouse on the Ebblake Industrial Estate was converted for use as an Ambulance Station in late 1993 and a new Police Station was built and opened in 1994.  Of course, each service has a Control centre linked to all their respective crews by radio and in emergency any or all of these may be summoned by means of a "999" call.

 

(History written in 1995 by Colin Burgess)